La Fête du Grand Magal 2006

SOO, I just got back from the Magal, which proved to be quite an experience. More or less it is a mini-hajj; that is to say, Cheikh Amadou Bamba, also known as Serigne Touba, is the founder of the Mourides sect of Islam, those who "perform miracles" loosely translated from Arabic. Bamba pondered what Muhammed called the "second great war" of Islam and decided that the only way to defeat the enemy was through peaceful means, doing no wrong to another human being, and ultimately following te path of Islam that would lead him and his followers closest to God.

More info on Touba and Mouridism can be found here:
http://members.chello.se/kinti/bayefall/mourid.htm

The 18th of Safar on the Arab calendar, or the 19th of March, is the commoration of his exile to the Gabon, and all Mourides make the trek to Touba (check it on the map) to the Great Mosque that is the symbol of Mouridism. I went with my American friends and a group of Mouride students from the University caravan style in a big spicy-warm bus and we ate lunch when we got there (men and women are separated, so I didn't see any of my friends for meals, but it was fine.) I chatted with a lot of the guys there, learned about Mouridism and the Magal, went to the mosque a couple of times with Anna and Assimilik (good Am friend and her boyfriend -- if I may be so bold -- from campus who was there with us), and generally had a very nice time. All of the Mouride guys on campus are really sweet and they were really welcoming. The whole weekend trip cost us $8 US for everything, food, lodging, transport, etc. The guys also get together every Friday, and all night long during the Magal, to chant the works of Serigne Touba in Arabic, which is really amazing.

We slept on mats outside, which was interesting, because it was chaleureusely hot during the days and chilly-butt cold at night with a nice breeze, lots of dust, and the highest human density I have ever experienced in my lifetime. I got called to defend my religious beliefs quite a few times (Anna and I were the only non-Muslims in the group), became quite famous with a group of women who we might visit later who want to take Anna out to get her made-up (mixture of "fun girl time" and "wow honey you need some work" hehe). Anna didn't quite know how to respond when one woman offered to go with her and get her eyebrows waxed. Hmmm so never a dull moment.

I collapsed on the ground last night to sleep without remembering to put my cellphone in the interior/secure pocket of my bubu pants, and thus I am now in the market to find a new one of those. They also took my Biscremes (a coveted coconut-flavored chocolate-filled favorite snack item of Anna and mine) and the pen in my pocket. People are like crazy about pens here. Go figure.

They call them bics here, like we call tissues Kleenex, and my favorite is when little kids think that white people exist to give them gifts and/or money. They start chanting "Tubaab, tubaab" (Originally Arab for Doctor, now Wolof for White foreigner) and giggling (it is a fun word to say), and hold out their hands saying things like "Donne-moi un cadeau," "Donne-moi l'argent," "Donne-moi cent francs," or "Donne-moi le bic." It is exciting. Nowadays we usually beat them to the chase and ask THEM for 100 francs, and I am working on responses to Tubaab like "young girl" "silly child" and "are you kidding?" Are you kidding is for the remote few University students who like to toss the word around. Walking by a group of twenty-somethings who blurt out Tubaab and giggle is at times more amusing for us than I think they realize ;-) My giggle is also getting stronger every day as I continue to perfect it.

SOO! Adventures abound. I got a rug for my room and last Wednesday was sheet day, so I finally got some of those. My faucet still doesn't turn off, but at least that way I know when the water is on. It is feeling more and more like home.

No signs of cholera as of yet!!